Thursday, August 1, 2013

Eating out in Shanghai

After my dinner at Ye Shanghai, I really started thinking about the differences in the restaurant service in China and the United States. 

I have heard many people complain that the service in China is not as good as in the United States.  Always, it is attributed to the fact that servers in China are not tipped, so of course they have no incentive to do better.  Honestly, I don't think its true.

I spent years in the service industry, both in Chicago and New Orleans, so my take the situation is a little different.  I think that the service in China is some of the best and worst I have received in all of my years eating out.  But overall, I am very pleased with how well I am treated here.  

First, I have never been to a restaurant where people are rude to me.  Never.  Not one.  Fancy places, hole in the wall, local places.  Never.  Now that might not be too much to ask, but having worked in the service industry, I remember the groans when a less than ideal customer sat in your section.  I have never had a server complain that I don't understand them.  In fact, they have been very accommodating.  They write in my phone, bring me picture menus.  I can't imagine people doing the same for me in the United States.  Not in Chicago, New Orleans, or Mobile.

Second, when I call a server over, they come immediately.  It true that a server will never come to the table unless called.  You need to raise your hand.  This goes completely counter to two minutes two bites rule.  In the U.S. we expect our servers to come over when we feel like they should.  This really presents a problem for servers.  They have to be able to read what you want, from body language and tone.  There are some
people who complain if the servers come to the table too often, and there are some people that complain if the servers don't come often enough.  It is really frustrating.  Here in Shanghai they got around that.  You want a server watching you eat? Call them over a million times.  You want them to leave you alone, don't call them over.  I feel like this works better because some times I want to order right away so I can eat a quick meal, and sometimes I want to talk to my friends for 15 minutes before I even look at a menu.

Third, you don't have to tip.  I hate tipping and I hated being tipped.  Tips are a terrible way to make a living.  You are at the mercy of other people.  There are nice people who tip what they should, but they are about 30% of the population (less in the South).  There are 30% that make you work your butt off for 15%, running you ragged, but at least you get some money.  And then, there are the last 30% that are stingy people that have some stupid ideas about tipped employees and haven't ever worked in the restaurant industry.  These people hardly leave tips, often leave less than 15% ("I give God 10% why should you get
15%?), and normally are jerks (I don't want a drink.  Just bring me lemon wedges, sugar packets, and some ice water).  With a  fixed salary, it is easier for servers to budget and live.  Also, it is easier for customers to understand what the total cost of the meal will be.

My big gripe about service here is the pacing of the meal.  The big problem being dessert.  Every place I have been to offers dessert but none bring the menu back.  If you don't speak Mandarin there is no way to ask for a menu.  If you try to be smart and order your dessert at the same time as you order food, it will
come, at the same time as the food.  Not so bad for some dessert, but ice cream and shaved ices, are a no-go for me, since I don't want them to melt.  And, it isn't just me, I have seen this done to Chinese people as well.  Very annoying.

Overall, I am very happy with the service.  Keep in mind that I have never ordered a bottle of wine or any other task that requires more finesse.  In general, I think that people who don't need to be coddled, will do fine in Shanghai, but if you need or expect a lot of attention when dinning, be forewarned that Shanghai dinning will be tough for you.

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